South Africa - September 2007

This is the story of Mike and Sue's holiday in South Africa in September 2007. It is in the form of a blog with links to photographs and additional information. Click on the date to find the complete photo album for the day. Follow one of the links to enter the album at a specific photograph. Enjoy!
Sunday 9th September 2007 Departure from the UK

17:00		One day earlier than expected, we are sitting in the Iberia lounge at Heathrow on our way to South Africa. On Friday evening we got a call from AA informing us that our flight on Monday had been cancelled and we would need to leave today. Jenny got the date of a wedding wrong, so we enjoyed her unexpected company with Jessica this morning. Jenny left at 1:15 leaving us with just over an hour to finish packing. Our Iberia flight to Madrid is due to depart at 17:35.
18:11		Quite a queue for take-off. Finally we are airborne on the first leg of our long journey.
21:11		At the gate in Madrid. Passengers in transit not allowed off yet!
21:55		Finally in the Iberia lounge, after quite a long ride on a bus and a very stressful security check. The onward flight to Johannesburg is showing on time.
Monday 10th September 2007 Arrival in Cape Town

11:45		Sitting in the BA lounge in Johannesburg. The Iberia flight arrived almost exactly on time; immigration and customs took very little time. It is beginning to feel as though we are on holiday.
15:30		Waiting for our luggage in Cape Town. Our British Airways flight was just about 45 minutes late.
17:10		Getting settled into our room at the Ambassador Hotel, Bantry Bay. A pleasant surprise at the airport .. our rental car was upgraded from about the cheapest I could find to a BMW. After a drive through Cape Town and along the coast, a pleasant surprise at our hotel .. our room is in fact a spacious apartment with a view of the sea.
17:35		Surprisingly, one of the best views of the sea is from the roof top car park. There is a lot of building work around; the hotel pool is not in use. The sea is pretty rough.
18:30		Watching the sun go down in the hotel bar and then reasonably early to bed. Immediate problem .. very limited Internet access.
Tuesday 11th September 2007 West Coast National Park

09:30		After a good night's sleep we just about get down for breakfast before the hotel restaurant stops serving. A good breakfast but a little slow. The weather looks pretty good so we decide to head North to the West Coast National Park to look for wild flowers.
10:30		On our way. There are flowers along the side of the road, but the weather is depressingly dull and overcast.
11:34		Just inside the West Coast National Park, we realise that we don't really know what to expect. We stop at more or less the first flowers we encounter, some ice plants by the side of the road. Looking up we see the first of many ostriches.
11:41		Stopped again, more ostriches.
11:51		Decision time, there is a road junction. To the right is lunch and straight on Postberg, an area only open during the spring wild flower season. We decide to postpone lunch. Lots more flowers.
12:04		We are stopped by a watering hole about half a mile off the main road, down a dirt track. This is not really worth the effort. Apart from a kelp gull flying overhead and a few isolated coots there is nothing here.
12:25		Heading towards Postberg, we have to stop to allow an Angulate Tortoise to cross the road. We are very close to the Ocean, separated only by sand dunes. There are wild flowers all along the side of the road.
12:51		In Postberg (and finding a toilet starts to become a priority). Here we follow the wildflower trail (not as we expected a walking train but a road). The meadows on both sides of the road and simply full of yellow, white and purple flowers.
12:57		Stopped again, this time to allow a small herd of Bontebok to cross the road and to look at a Sacred Ibis in the wild flowers. The trail is not surfaced and pretty rocky in places.
13:01		At last the toilet and we get blasted by sand blowing in the strong on shore winds.
13:08		A little further and we come to the ocean. Although the wind is still blowing, there is not so much sand. This is a really impressive place, the kind that makes you want to shout "wow!". Heavy seas are pounding the rocks; almost from the waterline there are flowers everywhere! Foam is blowing from the surf. Hartlaub's Gulls and Cormorants are perched on the rocks and foraging in the grass. We spot a Cape Skink soaking up the sun.
13:45		We are getting hungry but there is plenty more to see as we take a track heading to the highest point on the peninsula. We stop at yet more flowers and discover some very brightly coloured hairy caterpillars.
14:04		Stopped again. This time because there is a car blocking the single track road. Just below a granite outcrop, the driver has discovered a tortoise.
14:15		Stopped at the highest point on Postberg. More flowers and a spectacular view across the mouth of the lagoon sheltered by Postberg towards the town of Langebaan.
14:36		As we were driving back down towards sea level we spotted some animals in the distance. Finally we are close enough to identify them. Postberg has small herds of Bontebok, Blue Wildbeeste, Burchell's Zebra and Springboks.
15:03		Another Tortoise crossing the road.
15:36		At least we are at the cafe and have ordered lunch. While we wait some Cape Weavers keep us amused, stealing chips and sugar from the tables. By now the wind has really got up. It seems impossible that the Weaver's nests can avoid being blown out of the trees. Somehow they survive.
16:40		One final stop before leaving the park and heading back towards Kaapstad just over an hour away.
17:30		Stopped at a shopping mall to try to get a spare battery for Sue's video camera and some wine for our room.
20:00		A late dinner in the hotel restaurant before collapsing into bed.

Wednesday 12th September 2007 Cape Peninsula

10:00		On our way after another relatively late breakfast. Today we decide to tour the Cape Peninsula. The weather looks promising.
10:45		Stopped at the viewpoint on Chapman's Peak drive. Unfortunately this is as far as we can get, the road towards Cape Point is closed for maintenance, so we will be forced to backtrack. We are able to enjoy the spectacular views along the coastline and of the small town of Hout Bay.
11:08		Backtracking, we stop briefly at the entrance to Flora Bay Resort, with a casting of a cheetah sitting on a rock overlooking the bay. Most of the time, the cheetah has a gull sitting on its head.
13:10		After a stop for coffee at a shopping mall and another failure to get a spare camcorder battery we are in Cape Point National Park and stopped near the Cape of Good Hope looking at a group of Gemsbok in the shrubs above the road.
13:20		At the Cape of Good Hope. Apart from the world famous sign where everyone gets a photograph taken, there is very little there. Heavy seas pound the rocks. We climb on the rocks before moving on.
13:35		The Gemsbok are slightly closer to the road. It has obviously been very wet, with standing water on the road.
13:59		At Cape Point and first priority is getting something to eat. Rather tame red-winged starlings are everywhere, trying to steal food. The sparrows are a little more timid.
14:20		Lunch is past. There are two ways to get to the old lighthouse at Cape Point, a funicular train and a footpath. We took the funicular.
14:25		The funicular does not actually take us all the way. There are still steps that need to be conquered to get up to the lighthouse. Once at the top, there is a sign showing the distance to various places in the world and magnificent views towards the Cape of Good Hope, South across the open ocean and North along the coast of Cape Peninsula.
14:45		We have decided to attempt the Lighthouse Keeper's Path down to the end of Cape Point and the newer lighthouse. Since it is downhill all the way and uphill all the way back, we haven't yet decided whether to go all the way.
14:46		What we thought were rocks from higher up, we realise are Southern Right Whales. There are at least a dozen whales visible in the water below us, which keeps us interested a long way down the path. We get a much better view than when we went out in a boat later in the week.
14:56		We come across the first of many Black Zonures, lizards around 6 inches long. This one had rather a stunted tail.
15:03		The path levels out a little and we decide that we will go all the way to the lighthouse.
15:13		We are at the end of the path, overlooking the new lighthouse, new in 1919. All we have to do now is walk back up. Just beyond the end of the path, we see our first Dassie, a very strange furry animal that is genetically close to the elephant.
15:34		As we near the top of the path, black clouds are beginning to form ominously over the East Coast of Cape Peninsula.
15:46		We are on the funicular heading back down to the parking area. More whales are visible from the terrace as we stop for an ice cream.
16:12		Just about to leave Cape Point and there is a spectacular rainbow visible above Cape Point and the lighthouse.
16:21		As we head away from Cape Point, we encounter a troop of baboons, walking along the road. When we stop they climb all over our car.
16:38		We stop at the Buffelsfontein Visitor Centre, mostly to buy a book to help us identify the flowers we have seen.
16:49		Nearing the exit of the National Park area, we stop to admire the roadside shrubs and then head back up the East Coast of Cape Peninsula towards Cape Town, encountering more baboons resting in the road, looking for the world as if they had been hit by a car and let for dead.
19:30		Once again we have dinner in the hotel restaurant. We can hear the rough seas, but there is nothing much to be seen in the darkness.

Thursday 13th September 2007 Table Mountain, Newlands

09:30		Another late breakfast and confirmation for the concierge that we have tickets for the T20 Cricket World Cup match between England and Zimbabwe at Newlands. We get on our way at around 10:00.
10:39		We are in the queue for the cable car to the top of Cable Mountain. As we drove past, the clouds cleared for the first time since we arrived and we decided to tale advantage. By the time we had bought tickets and were in the queue, the clouds had returned and it was raining!
10:58		In the cable car and ascending. The weather is marginal, with the high wind warning light flashing and cloud coming and going.
11:04		On Table Mountain and the clouds have moved on. We get a great view in all directions.
11:41		Enough is enough. It is windy and cold, so we are heading back down the cable car and getting ready to drive to Newlands.
11:58		Back at the foot of the funicular and ready to drive to Newlands for the cricket.
12:45		We have found somewhere to park on a piece of waste ground a few minutes walk from Newlands cricket ground. Now we need to find the ticket office to collect our ticket.
13:26		We find our seats; both teams are on the ground warming up. This early in the afternoon, the sun is shining brightly and we are warm. Newlands Cricket Ground, nestled under the backside of Table Mountain is a magnificent location. The rugby ground that shares the same name is on the other side of the railway line.
13:41		The teams are displayed on the scoreboard as the start time approaches.
13:52		This is not cricket as we know it. The dancers appeared before the start and at every significant point in the game.
13:56		4 minutes to go and the England team, batting first are ready; the openers take the field.
13:58		A couple of minutes early, the first ball is bowled.
14:06		After only 8 minutes, the scoreboard looks good for England. 666 for 16! Not quite right, it should be 11 for 0.
14:08		Just two minutes later, things are even better. 888-18.
15:22		The end of the England innings.
15:31		England take the field.
16:18		There is no longer any sun, it is getting a little cold for cricket. The back of table mountain is looking rather ominous.
16:50		The match is over, England win comfortably. On the way out of the stadium we book 3 seats for England v Australia the following day.
19:30		Once again, dinner at the hotel.

Friday 14th September 2007 Kistenbosch Botanical Gardens, Newlands

10:09		With another T20 cricket match to watch, we have decided to fit in a quick visit to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. We arrive just after 10:00am on a beautiful sunny morning.
10:15		With so many pretty flowers to look at, it is hard to stay focused on any plan to fit in the major highlights of the gardens in a short period. Just inside the gates we encounter Flame Lilies and Bird-of-Paradise flowers. The paths are uphill all the way, so it is tempting to wander slowly uphill. The world famous Protea Garden is at the upper end of the park. In the end, I think I get the balance wrong and push Sue uphill rather faster that she is comfortable walking.
10:20		A lawn in the middle of the park is home to Tortoises and Egyptian Geese.
10:34		As the temperature started to rise, more and more sunbirds made their presence felt. Small, delicate birds, they moved very quickly, so were really hard to photograph.
10:35		We reach the Protea garden. With many species unique to the Cape Floral Kingdom in South Africa, these plants come in all shapes and sizes. Spectacular examples included, the yellow-orange Mountain Fynbos, the complex Helderfontein, Pincushions and of course the King Protea. Sunbirds are all around.
10:53		In the distance we can see out ultimate objective for the day, Newlands Cricket Ground. Above us are the cliffs of Table Mountain.
11:28		Walking back down towards the entrance, we walk through the most ancient plants in the gardens, the Cycads.
12:00		We are sitting in the Kirstenbosch Team Room, where we enjoy a light lunch before leaving for Newlands.
12:32		We leave Kirstenbosch. We really could have spent a lot longer here.
13:19		We are seated in Newlands. With 40 minutes to go before the start of the England v Australia game, the crowd is very sparse; the teams are on the ground warming up.
13:49		Almost ready to go and the dancers get going.
13:57		England bat first; the openers take the field.
16:07		England are in the field, defending a very modest total. The floodlights are on and it is getting very cold.
16:42		England's misery is complete. Australia win with more than 5 overs to spare.

Saturday 15th September 2007 City Tour, Whale Watching
10:00		Today we have decided to take a City Tour on an open-top bus. At 10am, we are at the Waterfront waiting for the next bus. There seems to be some kind of classic car rally.
10:38		Waiting at the bus stop for our tour bus to arrive. The weather is not promising with heavy grey clouds.
10:48		On the upper deck of a double decker bus leaving the Waterfront area. It is cold with rain threatening. Are we sensible on the open upper deck?
10:51		About to drive along Herengracht, passing Fountains Hotel where I stayed on my first trip to Cape Town about a year earlier.
10:55		Woolworths in Australia is not the same company as in the UK.
10:58		Stopped outside the Tourist Office.
11:10		We pass the Mount Nelson Hotel before driving past the House of Parliament.
11:15		Passing the District Six museum. Our guide spent some time explaining the significance of District Six.
11:23		Heading back towards the City Centre, we pass the commuter rail line into Cape Town.
11:26		Passing the Castle of Good Hope. (more). As we drive round the square in front of the Town Hall, we see a celebrations of the 2010 World Cup.
11:29		Passing in front of Cape Town City Hall, where Nelson Mandela made a speech that virtually guaranteed a peaceful transition of power from whites to blacks in South Africa.
11:50		Stopped at the base of Table Mountain, shrouded in cloud.
12:00		Still at the foot of Table Mountain, we are fascinated by the behaviour of one individual. Riding a pedal driven rickshaw he is there to make money, but when a group of children arrive he spends considerable time and effort giving them all a ride! What an example to others.
12:19		Stopped alongside the beach at Camps Bay at the foot of the 12 Apostles. It is a cold winter day; despite that a family group leave the bus and head for the beach and there are brave souls in the water.
12:39		Nearing the end of the bus tour we pass the red and white lighthouse at Mouille Point.
13:01		We finished the bus tour at the V&A Waterfront. After a few exciting minutes spend looking for a toilet, we walk along the dockside. There are harbour seals sitting in the sun on a jetty on the other side of the water.
13:25		Before we left the UK, I promised/threatened Sue that we could have fish and chips at the waterfront. This was the day. Excellent fish and chips, but lots of attention from seagulls.
13:45		Almost no time to make a decision, we literally jump aboard a whale watching boat just as it is about to leave. We leave the dock behind, passing in front of the clock tower and getting a dramatic view of Cape Town nestled at the foot of Table Mountain. There is lots of activity in and around the dockside, including maintenance of a drilling rig and a cable laying ship.
13:55		We pass the buoy that marks the end of the harbour. The sea is not calm and almost immediately a family of Indian women, ignoring all advice to go out on deck, start getting sea-sick. It tends to be contagious.
14:01		We power through a group of Penguins.
14:25		Keeping pretty close in to the shore we pass some of the resorts along the front of Table Bay, and people taking advantage of the wind to enjoy parascending.
14:44		Looking back, we get the "classic" view of Cape Town, dwarfed by Table Mountain.
15:05		Just offshore of the Koeberg nuclear power station, we start to look for whales.
15:15		Our first whale. Taking photos is a bit of a challenge. There is one passenger on board with a video camera who seems to believe that he can push everyone out of the way. We see whales, but not anywhere near as exciting as the view from Cape Point.
15:45		Time to head back .. we have seen lots of whales. Sue is not feeling 100%. Being cold on deck is preferable to being sick inside (especially as the Indian women go back inside and are almost immediately sick again.
16:45		Approaching Cape Town, we pass the sailing ship setting out for its sunset sail.
17:00		At last we are back, cold but not seasick.
18:30		I drop our rental car back at the airport and take a taxi back to the hotel.
20:00		Waiting for a table for dinner. We have been in the hotel long enough for the Maitre D to promise us a special table for dinner. This rebounds and we end up waiting almost an hour for a table.

Sunday 16th September 2007 Garden Route Tour, Cape Town to Oudtshoorn

08:45		Our last breakfast at the Ambassador Hotel. Looking out of the window, we see a rather strange vessel passing by. Later research shows that it is a floating crane.
09:00		Our guide for the tour of the Garden Route, Gerald, picks us up from the hotel. There is a sense of relief as our luggage fits in the boot.
10:00		Our first stop of the day at a viewpoint overlooking the sweep of False Bay and the city of Somerset West from the entrance to Sir Lowry's Pass. Within an hour we have realised that Gerald is going to be quite talkative and holds some strong opinions.
11:00		We are driving along almost deserted roads through the Cape Overberg region.
11:59		Our first real stop of the day in the small town of Swellendam, heavily Dutch influenced. Gerald encouraged us to walk along the main street past the Dutch Reformed Church and a number of houses dating back into the 19th century.
12:15		We are looking for a toilet. Gerald points us to a restaurant, who are less than helpful. Happily another restaurant across the road is more accommodating.
12:25		Back in the car and heading East along the N2.
12:45		We have turned North from the N2 along the scenic road towards Tradouws Pass where we stop a number of times. The first allows us to look towards the pass and down to the Buffeljags River. All around us the hillsides are covered in yellow flowers and purple erica (a rather coarse form of heather). A rather spectacular locust catches our attention.
13:01		Stopped in Tradouws Pass itself, with views down into the Buffeljags River Gorge.
14:00		After a long morning we stop at the Country Pumpkin Restaurant in the small town of Barrydale.
15:42		We stop briefly for a photo stop on the N62 entering the semi-arid Klein Karoo region. The vegetation is rather sparse, but even covered in dust, the Chinese Lantern flowers catch our attention.
16:45		As the shadows lengthen we arrive at La Plume Guest House where we are to spend the night. Our first job, enjoying a glass of wine on the terrace just outside our room with a spectacular view across the Olifants River Valley towards the Swartberg Mountains. Our room is very interesting and fussily decorated. The bottle of wine provided costs about 70p, so later we enjoy a couple more drinks.
16:58		There are birds below the terrace and in particular some spectacular red bishops and yellow weavers.
17:25		As the light begins to fade, we set out for a short walk. The guest house is actually part of an ostrich farm. Almost next to our room, we come across an enclosure of baby ostriches.
17:35		Walking along the road below the hotel, we pass various succulent plants, including Aloe, and some giant rushes in which weaver birds have built nests.
17:45		Across the valley there are numerous fields containing ostriches at different stages of development.
17:49		We walk as far as the local school before turning back towards the guest house.
17:53		As we get back towards the guest house we pass more incubators with infant ostriches.
19:00		A very pleasant meal of ostrich meat served with a passable local red wine.
Monday 17th September 2007 Garden Route Tour, Oudtshoorn to Knysna
06:40		We are up with sun. There are some spectacular views of the trees and sunrise and mist on the fields. At the far side of the valley some people are enjoying an early morning hot air balloon flight.
07:58		After a hearty breakfast we are on our way. Retracing our route back to the main road, we stop alongside an ostrich enclosure, where one female is guarding a brood of eggs.
08:09		We need petrol. Hopefully Friendly is a good description of the staff at the filling station.
08:48		On our way to George we need to cross the Outeniqua Mountains. We stop just over the ridge of Outeniqua Pass. In addition to the mountains, we are able to see the Montague Pass (not a metalled road) and the railway line from George to Oudtshoorn.
09:30		At the Transport Museum in George, the starting point of the Outeniqua Tjou-Choo, a steam railway. (We had elected to replace the visit to caves in the original itinerary proposed by the tour company with the train ride). We had a little time to wait so had a chance to walk around the museum.
09:42		On the platform admiring steam locomotive 2749 waiting to take the train to Mossel Bay. (The original track to Knysna was washed away by a landslide about a year earlier).
10:00		Right on time, the train pulls away from George.
10:21		There is lots to see from the train, including farms, flowers and a magnificent Great Blue Heron.
10:30		We cross a deep ravine over a relatively flimsy looking bridge and then run parallel to the N2 motorway.
10:43		The train reaches the coast. From here to Mossel Bay it is almost all along the coast.
11:04		Stopped at a small station - Groot Brak. This could be a crossing place for trains coming from Mossel Bay, but not today.
11:34		Approaching Mossel Bay and passing the mainline depot and a steam locomotive graveyard.
11:58		The end of the line at Mossel Bay. The train stops alongside the beach close to the Dias Maritime Museum. A challenge .. we can't find Gerald!
12:05		Trusting that Gerald will turn up, we start to look around the outside of the Dias Museum, with its cottages dating back to the 1830s and the "Post Office Tree" where sailors left messages for each other in an old sailor's boot under the tree.
12:30		We found Gerald and he directed us to the museum itself, which included some interesting exhibits relating to the discovery of Mossel Bay by Batholemew Diaz and an exhibition of old maps.
15:00		After lunch in Mossel Bay we were back in the car driving towards Knysna. Our first stop was alongside the Kaaimans River, where we spend about 15 minutes trying to get close to a bird perched on rocks in the river. It is probably some form of kingfisher.
15:19		At the mouth of the Kaaimans River. There is a pathway that takes us under the road and along the top of the cliff, with great views North East along the coast and a little further round into the Kaaimans River itself. The beach stretches for miles, with waves rolling in from the Indian Ocean, and with a few people enjoying the warm spring weather.
15:25		We are overlooking the spectacular railway bridge across the Kaaimans River and, just to the East, the landslide that has at least for the time being closed the line. A rather confusing sign at the viewpoint suggests that pedestrians should not be there.
15:29		Walking back towards the place where we left Gerald and the car, we discover a whole colony of Dassies living in the bushes at the top of the cliffs, another co-operative locust and some striking red flowers.
15:47		Stopped near Kleinkranz at a point overlooking a lagoon, protected from the ocean by sand dunes. There are lots of small water birds, but rather a long way from use.
16:00		A little further along the road, we are overlooking the small resort community of Kleinkrantz.
16:30		Entering Knysna nearing the end of our journey for the day, we divert to Margaret's Viewpoint overlooking Knysna lagoon from the West. Stepping over molehills we get a sweeping views as the Knysna River broadens out and the town of Knysna on the Eastern side of the lagoon.
17:15		We are checked in to the Kynsna Riverclub in a very pleasant log cabin on the water front. Almost immediately, we set off on a walk along the edge of the lagoon to take advantage of what is left of the day light. There is a small dock almost in front of our cabin which lets us get a little closer to the bird on the opposite side of the lagoon. Just along the lagoon, a family of Egyptian Geese are wandering around a slipway into the water. The whole area is very attractive in the mellow setting sunlight.
19:45		Dinner is at a local restaurant, heavily promoted by Gerald, but not really living up to the promise. The staff do entertain use with a capella African singing.
Tuesday 18th September 2007 Garden Route Tour, Knysna to Tsitsikamma
07:35		We are up and ready for breakfast. What a change overnight; the lagoon is shrouded in early morning mist.
08:45		Gerald has worked out that we are keen on birds and other wildlife. So, before leaving Knysna, he has brought us to the best area to view birds. We spend around 40 minutes looking at a large number of birds. Gerald appeared to be able to identify them all; we can identify some, but not all of them, even with the aid of books. Species we see include: Black-winged stilt Pied avocet Egyption goose Egret Great Egret Sacred Ibis Different types of duck With all of the water, there are some spectacular reflections.
09:15		Across the road there are crabs scuttling across shallow water in a muddy ditch.
10:00		Our first stop of the day is at a viewpoint overlooking the resort of Plettenberg Bay. A strange looking hotel, in the shape of a ship, the Southern Sun Beacon Island Resort dominates the beach. We can see whales just off shore and four Sacred Ibis fly past in close formation. There are great views of the bay in both directions with waves breaking over rocks near the hotel. Just below us a new hotel is under construction.
10:25		Stopped down at beach level, where what is allowed and not allowed is very clear. The beach is almost deserted. We have the option to go on a whale watching trip. We decline but watch as one of the whale watching boats accelerates towards the shore before beaching in the style of a landing craft.
10:55		A brief stop on the way out of Plettenberg Bay and a walk down a road towards a view towards the lagoon east of the town. Lots of spectacular flowers in the hedgerows and gardens.







Wednesday 19th September 2007 Garden Route Tour, Tsitsikamma to Port Elizabeth









Thursday 20th September 2007 Kruger National Park Safari, Johannesburg to Letaba Camp









Friday 21st September 2007 Kruger National Park Safari, Letaba to Skukuza








Saturday 22nd September 2007 Kruger National Park Safari, Letaba to Skukuza








Sunday 23rd September 2007 Kruger National Park Safari, around Skukuza







Monday 24th September 2007 Kruger National Park Safari, around Skukuza

Last updated on July 19, 2008